Showing posts with label General Health. Show all posts
Showing posts with label General Health. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Disadvantages of Soy Consumption for Dogs

The soybean (Glycine max) is a species of legume native to East Asia. It is an annual plant that may vary in growth, habit, and height. It may grow prostrate, not growing higher than 20 cm (7.8 inches), or even stiffly erect up to 2 meters (6.5 feet) in height. The pods, stems, and leaves are covered with fine brown or gray pubescence. The leaves are trifoliate (sometimes with 5 leaflets), and the leaflets are 6–15 cm (2–6 inches) long and 2–7 cm (1–3 inches) broad. The leaves fall before the seeds are mature. The small, inconspicuous, self-fertile flowers are borne in the axil of the leaf and are white, pink or purple. The fruit is a hairy pod that grows in clusters of 3–5, with each pod 3–8 cm (1–3 inches) long and usually containing 2–4 (rarely more) seeds 5–11 mm in diameter.

Like some other crops of long domestication, the relationship of the modern soybean to wild-growing species can no longer be traced with any degree of certainty. It is a cultural variety (a cultigen) with a very large number of cultivars. However, it is known that the progenitor of the modern soybean was a vine-like plant that grew prone on the ground.

Beans are classed as pulses whereas soybeans are classed as oilseeds. The word "soy" is derived from the Chinese word 醬油 for soy sauce/soya sauce.

Disadvantages associated with the feeding of soy products to dogs include:

  • They contain antinutritional factors such as trypsin inhibitor (inactivitated by extrusion and canning) and oligosaccharides, the latter being responsible for increased production of flatulence;
  • They have low methionine and cysteine concentrations;
  • Their use results in a more voluminous and higher moisture feces;
  • Some animals may exhibit an allergic reaction to soy protein;
  • Soy protein may reduce trace mineral availability because of its phytate and fiber concentrations; and
  • Soy product inclusion in diets may provide excessive quantities of soluble dietary fiber (modified from Hill [1995]).

Disclaimer: Reading materials in this site are obtained from its respective website and it is for information purposes only. It is not Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd. view and it is not to be used against Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd.

Tuesday, May 08, 2007

Chemical Poisoning on Dogs

Recently, one of our regular client came in and ask us about chemical poisoning on pet dogs. Well, I decided to publish this articles on chemical poisoning on our pet dogs for your information. The followings article is obtain from http://www.petco.com/:

Chemical Poisons

With your dog's naturally curious and adventurous personality, don't be surprised if he unwittingly finds himself ingesting some toxic chemicals you keep in your home. Despite all efforts to dog-proof a home, accidents involving deadly chemicals can still happen.

Your dog can be a victim of chemical poisoning if he swallows a chemical or any chemically-tainted substance, licks off a toxic substance from his fur, eats a poisoned pest, inhales toxic fumes or absorbs a considerable amount of a chemical through his skin.

As part of regular housekeeping, most people maintain a stock of dozens of different solvents, detergents, pesticides and treating agents, many of which can make pets very sick if ingested. Some solvents and cleaners may even be fatal to your pet.

The best cure is, of course, prevention. Keep all household cleaning products away from curious animals. Scented products that smell good to an animal are especially dangerous. If you think your pet has consumed any dangerous products, call your veterinarian immediately. If your pet needs to make a trip to the vet, remember to take the product container with you to give your vet a better idea of what your pet may have ingested.

Type of Chemical

Caustic Chemicals (Petroleum Products, Acids and Alkalis), Corrosive Chemicals:

Mainly used for dissolving grime, are the most dangerous substances to your dog. They will instantly burn the tissues of your pet's mouth and throat. Do NOT induce your dog to vomit in this case because forcibly throwing up the corrosive substance will cause further damage to his digestive lining.

Household Products:

Kerosene, Gasoline, Lighter fluid, Toilet bowl and drain cleaners, Lime, Floor, shoe and furniture polishes, Paint remover/thinner, Wax, Oven cleaners, Wood preservatives (creosote), dishwasher soap, Lye, Battery acid, Phenol based substances (disinfectants, fungicides, photographic developers), Solvents, Chlorine bleach, Etching solutions

Symptoms Of Poisoning:

Ulcerated or inflamed tongue, Grayish-yellow burns on lips, mouth or tongue, Bloody vomit, Shock, Abdominal pains, Diarrhea, Inability to eat because of sore mouth, Bad smell emanating from mouth because of dying tissue, Excessive salivation

Non-Corrosive Chemicals:

Equally toxic and no less fatal, these chemicals are most often taken for granted and left lying around where dogs can reach them. If your dog accidentally ingests any of these chemicals, vomiting may be induced to expel as much of the poison as possible.

Household Products:

Bleach, Detergents, Dyes, Pesticides and herbicides, Aerosol sprays, Phosphorus (non-safety kitchen matches), Glues, Acetone, Naphthalene (mothballs), Boric acid (shaving lotion), Carbon tetrachloride (fire extinguisher, liquid), Borax compound (fire extinguisher, powder), Deodorants, Fabric softener, Pine oil

Symptoms Of Poisoning:

Vomiting, Panting, Abdominal pain, Drooling, Trembling limbs and trouble walking, Convulsions, Mewling, Fever, Loss of appetite, Weakness, Diarrhea, Depression

If you suspect your pet has ingested a toxic substance, the first thing you must do is determine the substance. Read the product's label for the list of ingredients and for any instructions on accidental ingestion.

Observe your dog's symptoms carefully. If he's vomiting or has diarrhea, you may want to take samples to the vet to help with diagnosis. The treatment will vary according to the poison and whether it has been ingested, inhaled or absorbed through the skin.

Always have on hand a good dog emergency handbook and a first aid kit. It's also a good idea to stock your medicine cabinet or pantry with liquid antacid, vegetable oil (to coat the intestines or remove substances on fur), hydrogen peroxide (to induce vomiting, if indicated) and diluted vinegar or lemon juice (to help neutralize an alkali). Also, know how much your dog weighs, because treatments are often measured in proportion to the animal's weight.

Safeguarding Your Pet From Chemical Poisoning

Since most of the household chemicals in our homes are essential to our sanitation and housekeeping routines, all we can do to protect our dogs is strictly dog-proof and monitor our surroundings. To safeguard your dog against chemical poisoning, check cupboards, closets and any storage areas to make sure all harmful products are out of your dog's reach. Make sure no chemical bottles are leaking. Read the labels on all cleaners and other household products for their warnings, and use your best judgment. If you wouldn't want a child to have access to it, keep it away from your dog.

Close the door while you are cleaning, especially in the bathroom. Leaving the door ajar will risk your pet attempting to taste the cleaners you are using. Or he may walk over some spills on the floor and will be sure to lick any foreign substances from his paws, thus ingesting the toxic chemicals.

When painting, varnishing or spraying herbicides/insecticides, keep your dog out of the area until long after the substance dissipates or dries. Dogs are very susceptible to fumes and can even absorb some toxins through the skin.

Don't forget to dog-proof the garage or shed for any chemical products you store there. Make sure the lids of all chemical products are tightly closed. Dogs are not always careful about brushing against objects and spilling their contents, much less walking into unsafe or contaminated areas. Put gasoline, kerosene and turpentine in a locked cabinet or storeroom. Be especially careful to stash antifreeze out of reach. With the sweet taste of ethylene glycol, antifreeze is one of the most common agents of animal poisoning.

Make sure you also dog-proof your garden. Snail bait and other ground chemicals can be deadly to dogs. Rodent poison and poisoned rodents are another potential source of trouble. Watch what you spray on your plants, too. Your dog can become very sick by nibbling on a leaf sprayed with pesticides. Check your local nursery for harmless, organic alternatives.

Poisoning is high on the list of a pet owner's nightmares and unfortunately, is quite a common occurrence. Therefore, arming yourself with the knowledge of what to do before any accident occurs means that you will be in the best position to help your pet if he or she is poisoned.


Disclaimer: Reading materials in this site are obtained from its respective website and it is for information purposes only. It is not Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd. view and it is not to be used against Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd.

Monday, May 07, 2007

What is AAFCO

I am sure most of you must have come accross this word AAFCO label at the dog food that you purcahsed for your pet dog. What is it? Following definition of AAFCO is obtained from www.aafco.org:

The term AAFCO stands for the Association of American Feed Control Officials. A basic goal of AAFCO is to provide a mechanism for developing and implementing uniform and equitable laws, regulations, standards and enforcement policies for regulating the manufacture, distribution and sale of animal feeds; resulting in safe, effective, and useful feeds. The Association thereby promotes new ideas and innovative procedures and urges their adoption by member agencies, for uniformity.

Purpose and Function of AAFCO:

The purpose of the corporation shall be to establish and maintain an Association through which officials of any state, dominion, federal or other governmental agency and employees thereof charged with a responsibility in enforcing the laws regulating the production, labeling, distribution, or sale of animal feeds or livestock remedies may unite to explore the problems encountered in administering such laws, to develop just and equitable standards, definitions and policies to be followed in enforcing such laws, to promote uniformity in such laws, regulations and enforcement policies, and to cooperate with members of the industry producing such products in order to promote the effectiveness and usefulness of such products.

Disclaimer: Reading materials in this site are obtained from its respective website and it is for information purposes only. It is not Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd. view and it is not to be used against Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd.

Monday, April 23, 2007

Fleas??!!

Flea is the common name for any of the small wingless insects of the order Siphonaptera (some authorities use the name Aphaniptera because it is older, but names above family rank do not follow the rules of priority, so most taxonomists use the more familiar name). Fleas are external parasites, living by hematophagy off the blood of mammals and birds, and genetic and morphological evidence indicates that they are descendants of the Scorpionfly family Boreidae, which are also flightless; accordingly it is possible that they will eventually be reclassified as a suborder within the Mecoptera. In the past, however, it was most commonly supposed that fleas had evolved from the flies (Diptera), based on similarities of the larvae.

The Flea life cycle

The entire life cycle can be as short as 2-4 weeks.

Understanding how fleas live, and breed, makes it easier to understand the best methods available to eradicate a flea problem.

EGGS
One female adult flea can lay anything from four to 40 eggs a day, with the highest concentration of egg-laying occurring in the final two to three days of life. Eggs are oval, around 0.5mm long, white and rounded at both ends. The eggs are non-sticky and so, once laid, they immediately fall onto the ground, wherever the pet travels.

Depending upon the temperature and humidity, the eggs will hatch into larvae within one to ten days. Humidity below 50% will cause desiccation and destruction of eggs. The environment in which the eggs are deposited is therefore of prime importance to survival rates and helps to explain why warmer winters and hot summers have increased flea populations considerably in recent years.

LARVAE

A larva will hatch from an egg using a chitin tooth - an egg splitting spine on its head. This disappears when the larva changes into the second of its three 'moults' or development stages. It is this tooth that is affected by modern, oral flea treatments which contain an insect development inhibitor, as the treatment renders the chitin tooth ineffective and prevents the larvae hatching from the egg.

Larvae are semi-transparent and sparsely covered in short hairs. They are usually white with a yellow-brownish head and are generally quite active. They are dependent on a diet of adult flea faeces (which consists mainly of dried blood) for survival, but will also feed on other organic debris in your carpet.

In a home environment, flea larvae are found at the base of the carpet pile, where they can encounter food, are sheltered by the canopy of carpet fibre and can keep away from direct light.
The larvae develop through three moults, or changes, before reaching the pupal stage. The time this takes varies from 7-18 days and is once again dependent on the environmental temperatures. Moisture is vital and relative humidity below 50% will cause desiccation and death.

After the third moult, the larva moves to a quiet, undisturbed place to begin spinning a silk cocoon coated with particles of debris picked up from its surroundings for use as camouflage.

PUPAE

It is within the cocoon that the larvae turns into the next stage of development - the pupa.

From this stage, the adult flea develops. The fully formed adult flea remains in the cocoon until stimulated to hatch by, for example, warmth, vibration and exhaled carbon dioxide from a passing pet - or even human!

Development of the flea within the cocoon is also affected by temperature and humidity. Low relative humidity is harmful to the cocooned adult whereas higher relative humidity and higher temperatures result not only in speedier hatching but in bigger fleas!

Pupae subjected to suitable hatching conditions can emerge as adult fleas as early as three to five days following pupation. However, be warned - they can also remain unhatched for up to a year and can cause a re-occurrence of a flea problem if you relax your guard. This phenomenon is known as the 'pupal window' and you need to be aware of it before effective flea treatment can begin.

The pupal window. The pupal window is defined as the period in which fleas are still seen to hatch once an effective flea control regime has been started. By 'effective', we mean a regime that includes an oral insect development inhibitor with or without a household spray.

Environmental sprays and powders can't readily penetrate the cocoon and therefore have no effect on the maturing adult inside if used on their own.

These fleas continue to hatch from their protective cocoons and, unless the flea control regime is maintained, will be the source of the next generation of fleas ready to cause you and your pet more problems!

The pupal window usually only remains 'open' for 1-2 months following the start of a flea control regime but, in some extreme cases, fleas, in their protective cocoons, have been known to live within a house without food for considerable periods of time. This means the pupal window period may extend for several more months after treatment is started.

This cunning feature of the flea is the reason why continuous flea control is needed - the easiest method is to use the new monthly flea treatments simply given to pets in their food.

ADULTS

As soon as possible after the adult flea has hatched from the cocoon, it will begin looking for its first blood meal. Unlike the flea larva, which tends to move downwards and away from light towards protective covering (e.g. the carpet base), adult fleas move upwards and towards the light, in order to be in a better position to locate a suitable host.

A flea's eyesight is not brilliant and so air currents and carbon dioxide in the air appear to be responsible for helping the flea find a target. Air currents will be caused by a cat or dog moving past the adult flea, whilst the carbon dioxide increases are caused by the cat or dog breathing in close proximity to the waiting adult.

Adult fleas have been known to jump as many as 10,000 times in succession, whilst trying to leap onto a passing cat or dog - the flea knows they are close by but it's more a question of luck than judgment when trying to make a successful connection between the hooks on the flea's legs and the fur on the cat or dog.

However, once satisfactorily 'anchored', the flea will immediately begin to feed with females starting to lay eggs within 48 hours of the first feed.

Before taking in blood, the flea secretes saliva into the wound. This contains a substance that softens and spreads the skin tissue, assisting with penetration. The saliva also contains an anticoagulant to help with the feeding. It is flea saliva that is usually the cause of allergic reactions in cats, dogs - and humans.

Once on a suitable host, the adult fleas will remain there until they die, which is usually within one to two weeks. Unfortunately for the pet (although fortunately for the flea population) female fleas tend to live longer than males - there are also more females than males. If a dog or cat is left to groom itself normally (and cats groom more thoroughly than dogs on the whole), many adult fleas will also be dislodged or swallowed naturally. However, if for any reason, a cat or dog is unable to groom itself - it may be ill for example - then the owner should groom it more frequently than usual, to mirror the pet's natural methods of flea control.

Where Fleas Hide?

No matter what the weather is like outside, the climate inside your home is always perfect for supporting an entire population of fleas.

Take a look at the picture below to learn where fleas like to make themselves at home:

How can I tell if my pet has fleas?

The simplest way to tell if your pet has fleas is by finding the adult fleas or the flea feces (often called "flea dirt") on the animal. Brush your pet over a white sheet or paper towel and look for small dark specks. Flea feces contain digested blood and they will turn a reddish brown color when moistened with a small amount of water.

What are the dangers of fleas?

Fleas can cause medical problems in pets including flea allergy dermatitis (FAD), tapeworms, hair loss due to scratching, and secondary skin irritations. In large numbers, fleas can cause anemia from blood loss, especially in puppies and kittens. Some pets have been known to die if the anemia is severe.

Prevent!!!

Kindly consult us, on ways to prevent fleas from jumping onto our beloved pet dogs.


Disclaimer: Reading materials in this site are obtained from its respective website and it is for information purposes only. It is not Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd. view and it is not to be used against Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd.

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Flax and Sunflower Seed for Dog?

Flax (also known as Common Flax or Linseed) is a member of the genus Linum in the family Linaceae. The New Zealand flax is unrelated. Flax is native to the region extending from the eastern Mediterranean to India and was probably first domesticated in the Fertile Crescent. It was extensively cultivated in ancient Egypt.It is an erect annual plant growing to 120 cm tall, with slender stems. The leaves are glaucous green, slender lanceolate, 2-4 cm long and 3 mm broad. The flowers are pure pale blue, 1.5-2.5 cm diameter, with five petals. The fruit is a round, dry capsule 5-9 mm diameter, containing several glossy brown seeds shaped like an apple pip, 4-7 mm long.

The sunflower seed is the seed of the sunflower (Helianthus annuus). The term "sunflower seed" is actually a misnomer when applied to the seed in its pericarp (hull). Botanically speaking, it is more properly referred to as an achene. When dehulled, the edible remainder is called the sunflower kernel.

For commercial purposes, sunflower seeds are usually classified by the pattern on their husks. If the husk is solid black, the seeds are called black oil sunflower seeds. The crops may be referred to as oilseed sunflower crops. These seeds are usually pressed into sunflower oil. Additionally, these seeds are generally considered the seed of choice for bird feeders.

If the husks are striped, the seeds are called striped sunflower seeds or "stripers." Due to their lower oil content, the crops are called non-oilseed sunflower crops. Striped sunflower seeds are primarily used for food; as a result, they may also be called confectionery sunflower seeds.
Okie, after a brief definition of the flax and sunflower seed, are flax and sunflower seeds good for our pet dog?

Below is an abstract from Veterinary Dermatology book, which I have obtain from http://www.blackwell-synergy.com:

This prospective study involved supplementing 18 normal dogs with flax seed (FLX) and sunflower seed (SUN) and evaluating their effects on skin and hair coat condition scores and serum polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) concentrations. Skin and hair coat were evaluated in a double-blinded fashion using a numeric scoring system and serum PUFA concentrations were determined. Our hypothesis was that changes in serum PUFA concentrations are associated with improvements in skin and hair coat and that serum PUFA would provide an objective method for making dietary fatty acid supplement recommendations. Although a numerical improvement was found in hair coat quality in both groups, this improvement was not sustained beyond 28 days. The relative per cent of 18:3n-3 concentrations in serum phospholipids increased in the FLX treated dogs but these concentrations remained unchanged in the SUN treated dogs. Also, elevations in relative per cent of 18:2n-6 concentrations in serum phospholipids were seen in the FLX group. The ratio of serum polyunsaturated to saturated fatty acids also showed a transient increase. These increases preceded the peak skin condition score peak value by approximately 14 days. It was concluded that a 1-month supplementation with either flax seed or sunflower seed in dogs provides temporary improvement in skin and hair coat. These changes appeared to be associated with increased serum 18 carbon PUFA.

Summary

Flaxseed Meal – (Omega 3) Aids in the movement of food through the digestive tract. Flax nourishes and is soothing to the stomach and intestinal linings. This plant source of Omega-3 fatty acids helps enhance the coat’s sheen.

Sunflower Seed – (Omega 6) Known for producing a beautiful skin and coat, as well as visible sheen.

Disclaimer: Reading materials in this site are obtained from its respective website and it is for information purposes only. It is not Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd. view and it is not to be used against Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd.

Monday, April 16, 2007

Are Grapes and Raisins Harmful to Dogs??

The heart, like the grape, is prone to delivering its harvest in the same moment it appears to be crushed. "Roger Houseden"

Introduction

A grape is the fleshy, non-climacteric fruit that grows on the perennial and deciduous woody vines of the family Vitaceae. Grapes grow in clusters of 6 to 300, and can be black, blue, golden, green, purple, red, pink, brown, peach or white. They can be eaten raw or used for making jam, grape juice, jelly, wine and grape seed oil. Cultivation of grapevines occurs in vineyards, and is called viticulture. One who studies and practises growing grapes for wine is called a viticulturist.

Raisins are the dried fruit of the grapevine, and the name actually comes from the French word for "grape". Wild grapevines are often considered a nuisance weed, as they cover other plants with their usually rather aggressive growth.

The aroma of wine, the sweetness of the jam and the thirst crunching of grape juice, will surely makes our tongue twitch right. However, are grapes and raisins harmful to dogs?

Following is an article obtains from http://www.wikipedia.com:

Grape and raisin toxicity in the dog is a potential health threat to dogs that have eaten grapes or raisins. It can cause the dog to develop acute renal failure (the sudden development of kidney failure) with anuria (a lack of urine production). The phenomenon was first identified by the Animal Poison Control Center (APCC), run by the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). A trend was seen as far back as 1999. Approximately 140 cases were seen by the APCC in the one year from April 2003 to April 2004, with 50 developing symptoms and seven dying.

The reason why some dogs develop renal failure following ingestion of grapes and raisins is not known. Types of grapes involved include both seedless and seeded, store bought and homegrown, and grape pressings from wineries. A mycotoxin is suspected to be involved, but one has not been found in grapes or raisins ingested by affected dogs. The estimated toxic dose of grapes is 32 g/kg of grapes per kilograms of mass of the dog), and for raisins it is 11–30 g/kg. The most common pathological finding is proximal renal tubular necrosis. In some cases, an accumulation of an unidentified golden-brown pigment was found within renal epithelial cells.

Symptoms and diagnosis

Vomiting and diarrhea are often the first symptoms of grape or raisin toxicity. They often develop within a few hours of ingestion. Pieces of grapes or raisins may be present in the vomitus or stool. Further symptoms include weakness, not eating, increased drinking, and abdominal pain. Acute renal failure develops within 48 hours of ingestion. A blood test may reveal increases in blood urea nitrogen (BUN), creatinine, phosphorus, and calcium.

Treatment

Emesis (induction of vomiting) is the generally recommended treatment if a dog has eaten grapes or raisins within the past two hours. A veterinarian may use an emetic such as hydrogen peroxide or apomorphine to cause the dog to vomit. Further treatment may involve the use of activated charcoal to absorb remaining toxins in the gastrointestinal tract and intravenous fluid therapy in the first 48 hours following ingestion to induce diuresis and help to prevent acute renal failure. Dialysis of the blood (hemodialysis) and peritoneal dialysis can be used to support the kidneys if anuria develops. Oliguria (decreased urine production) can be treated with dopamine or furosemide to stimulate urine production.

In addition, following is a letter obtain from http://urbanlegends.about.com/ describing a vet experience in handling a dog who has consume large amount of raisins. Sad sad case. Do read...

WARNING Dog Owners

This week I had the first case in history of raisin toxicity ever seen at MedVet.
My patient was a 56-pound, 5 yr old male neutered lab mix who ate half a canister of raisins sometime between 7:30 AM and 4:30 PM on Tuesday. He started with vomiting, diarrhea and shaking about 1AM on Wednesday but the owner didn't call my emergency service until 7AM.
I had heard somewhere about raisins AND grapes causing acute Renal failure but hadn't seen any formal paper on the subject. We had her bring the dog in immediately. In the meantime, I called the ER service at MedVet, and the doctor there was like me – had heard something about it, but....

Anyway, we contacted the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center and they said to give I V fluids at 1 ½ times maintenance and watch the kidney values for the next 48-72 hours.
The dog's BUN (blood urea nitrogen level) was already at 32 (normal less than 27) and creatinine over 5 (1.9 is the high end of normal). Both are monitors of kidney function in the bloodstream. We placed an IV catheter and started the fluids. Rechecked the renal values at 5 PM and the BUN was over 40 and creatinine over 7 with no urine production after a liter of fluids. At the point I felt the dog was in acute renal failure and sent him on to MedVet for a urinary catheter to monitor urine output overnight as well as overnight care.

He started vomiting again overnight at MedVet and his renal values have continued to increase daily. He produced urine when given lasix as a diuretic. He was on 3 different anti-vomiting medications and they still couldn't control his vomiting. Today his urine output decreased again, his BUN was over 120, his creatinine was at 10, his phosphorus was very elevated and his blood pressure, which had been staying around 150, skyrocketed to 220. He continued to vomit and the owners elected to euthanize.

This is a very sad case – great dog, great owners who had no idea raisins could be a toxin. Please alert everyone you know who has a dog of this very serious risk. Poison control said as few as 7 raisins or grapes could be toxic.

Many people I know give their dogs grapes or raisins as treats. Any exposure should give rise to immediate concern.

Laurinda Morris, DVM Danville Veterinary Clinic Danville, Ohio

So please please do remember not to give your pet dog grapes or raisins. If your dog consume either grapes or raisins without your knowledge, please consult your nearest vet. PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN CURE.

Disclaimer: Reading materials in this site are obtained from its respective website and it is for information purposes only. It is not Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd. view and it is not to be used against Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd.

Why Chocolate Poisons Dogs??!!

Life is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're going to get. "Forrest Gump - Tom Hanks".

I am sure most of us love the taste and the melting of the chocolate in our mouth and I believe no exception should be given to our pet dog. I bet they will love it too. However be warn about the consequences of giving our beloved pet dogs chocolate.

Followings is an article adopted from http://www.dogownersdigest.com/:

While the pathetic begging look that goes across the face of a dog wanting chocolate can weaken the most stoic dog owner, stay firm. Do not give in. Ever.

Once dogs have tasted chocolate, they want more.

Moreover, for dogs, that is a bad thing.

You might disagree, thinking back to a time when you noticed a dog enjoying a tidbit of chocolate with no deleterious effect.

Do not be fooled.

The problem, according to veterinary experts, is that eating a speck of chocolate leads a dog to crave more. It can mean that your dog will jump at an opportunity to get any type of chocolate, not knowing that certain chocolates are more lethal than other types. Larger amounts of chocolate, particularly of the most toxic type, can bring about epileptic seizures in some dogs, and in all dogs, can kill.

"Chocolate ingestion are one common reason why pet owners and veterinarians call us," said Dana Farbman, Certified Veterinary Technician and Manager, Client and professional Relations, ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. "However, it would be difficult to verify an exact ranking in frequency of calls, as the types of substances we receive calls on can vary greatly depending on many factors, including the time of year. We generally do experience somewhat of a rise in chocolate calls around holidays, such as Halloween, Easter, Christmas, Valentine's Day and Mother's Day.

Why is Chocolate Lethal?

Chocolate contains theobromine. A naturally occurring stimulant found in the cocoa bean, theobromine increases urination and affects the central nervous system as well as heart muscle. While amounts vary by type of chocolate, the theobromine is poisonous to dogs.

You can recognize that your dog has eaten a toxic dose of chocolate from the symptoms. Within the first few hours, the evidence includes vomiting, diarrhea or hyperactivity. As time passes and there's increased absorption of the toxic substance, you'll see an increase in the dog's heart rate, which can cause arrhythmia, restlessness, hyperactivity, muscle twitching, increased urination or excessive panting.

The theobromine will remain in their bloodstream for up to 20 hours, and these animals may experience epileptic seizures, heart attacks, internal bleeding, and eventually death. How Much Chocolate Is Deadly?

If a 50-pound dog eats a teaspoonful of milk chocolate, it is not going to cause serious problems. However, if that same dog gorges himself on a two-layer chocolate cake, his stomach will feel more than upset and soon it's likely he'll be vomiting or experiencing diarrhea.

To answer the question "How much is too much" is not simple. The health and age of your dog must be considered. Obviously if your dog is aged and not in top shape, his reaction to a plate of chocolate is going to be different from a young healthy dog of the same weight.

Another fact that must be considered is this: Not all chocolate is the same. Some has a small amount of theobromine; another type has a large amount and still another contains an amount that is somewhere in between. The quantity has a relationship with the weight of your dog. Small dogs can be poisoned; it is easy to understand, from smaller amounts of theobromine than large dogs.

Which chocolate is the safest, relatively speaking? White chocolate. It has the least amount of theobromine: 1 mg per ounce. Far on the other side of the spectrum is baking chocolate, which has a huge 450 mg of theobromine per ounce!

Here are a few other chocolates for you to ponder: hot chocolate, 12 mg of theobromine per ounce; milk chocolate, 60 mg/oz; and up there near baking chocolate: semi-sweet chocolate with 260 mg/oz.

Knowing which chocolate is the most toxic is important, but leaves one wondering how much must be eaten to poison a dog. The list in this box should be helpful. Maybe you can clip it and post it on your refrigerator?

White chocolate: 200 ounces per pound of body weight. It takes 250 pounds of white chocolate to cause signs of poisoning in a 20-pound dog, 125 pounds for a 10-pound dog.

Milk chocolate: 1 ounce per pound of body weight. Approximately one pound of milk chocolate is poisonous to a 20-pound dog; one-half pound for a 10-pound dog. The average chocolate bar contains 2 to 3 ounces of milk chocolate. It would take 2-3 candy bars to poison a 10 pound dog. Semi-sweet chocolate has a similar toxic level.

Sweet cocoa: 0.3 ounces per pound of body weight. One-third of a pound of sweet cocoa is toxic to a 20-pound dog; 1/6 pound for a 10-pound dog.

Baking chocolate: 0.1 ounce per pound body weight. Two one-ounce squares of bakers' chocolate is toxic to a 20-pound dog; one ounce for a 10-pound dog.

Finally yet importantly, after reading this article, if you still could not resist the temptation in giving your dog a chocolate treats, do come to our shop and get chocolate treats, which does not contain theobromine for your pet dog.








Disclaimer: Reading materials in this site are obtained from its respective website and it is for information purposes only. It is not Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd. view and it is not to be used against Puppy Cottage Sdn. Bhd.